PHamily Hair Coloring Series Part 2: 8 Things to Know Before You Color

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PHamily Hair Care

PHamily Hair Coloring Series Part 2: 8 Things to Know Before You Color Natural Hair

By Emery McClendon

PHamily Hair Care

Before you choose a shade, buy a box, mix a formula, or sit down in a stylist’s chair, there is one thing you need to understand first:

Your hair has a history.

That history matters.

Two people can use the exact same color and get very different results because they are not starting with the same hair.

Your natural color, gray percentage, previous color, relaxers, bleach, heat use, porosity, dryness, breakage, and overall condition can all affect how your hair responds.

That is why Part 2 of our PHamily Hair Coloring Series is all about knowing your hair before you color it.

WHERE WE ARE IN THE SIX-PART SERIES

Part 1: Hair Color 101
Understanding the different choices.

Part 2: Know Your Hair Before You Color It
Understanding your starting point.

Part 3: Henna & Plant-Based Hair Color
Taking a deeper look at our preferred plant-based approach.

Part 4: Preparing Natural Hair for Color
Getting your hair ready before color day.

Part 5: Coloring at Home
Technique, application, and common mistakes.

Part 6: After the Color
Keeping color-treated hair moisturized, manageable, and healthy-looking.

1. WHAT COLOR IS YOUR HAIR RIGHT NOW?

This sounds simple, but it is one of the most important questions you can ask.

Look closely at your hair.

Is it:

  • Black?

  • Dark brown?

  • Medium brown?

  • Light brown?

  • Red?

  • Gray?

  • A mixture of several shades?

Now look at the roots, lengths, and ends separately.

They may not all be the same color.

Your roots may be your natural shade.

Your lengths may have old permanent color.

Your ends may be lighter from sun exposure, older color, or previous chemical processing.

Gray may be concentrated around the temples or spread throughout the head.

All of that matters.

YOUR HAIR MAY HAVE MORE THAN ONE STARTING COLOR

Many people think of their hair as one color when it is actually several.

For example:

  • Dark natural roots

  • Medium brown previously colored lengths

  • Lighter porous ends

  • Gray around the hairline

If one color formula is applied to all of those areas, they may not all respond the same way.

That is why roots can sometimes look brighter.

Ends can sometimes become darker.

Gray may cover differently.

Previously colored areas may not respond the same way as virgin hair.

The better you understand what is already on your head, the fewer surprises you are likely to have.

2. WHAT HAS ALREADY BEEN DONE TO YOUR HAIR?

Hair remembers what has been done to it.

Even when a chemical service happened months ago, the processed portion of the strand is still there until it grows out or is cut off.

Think about whether your hair has been:

  • Permanently colored

  • Bleached

  • Highlighted

  • Relaxed

  • Permed

  • Treated with henna

  • Chemically straightened

  • Frequently exposed to high heat

Previously processed hair may be more fragile and may respond differently to another coloring process.

VIRGIN HAIR VS. PREVIOUSLY COLORED HAIR

Virgin Hair

Virgin hair generally means hair that has not been chemically colored or lightened.

That does not automatically mean the hair is perfectly healthy, but it does mean there is no previous artificial color sitting inside the strand.

Previously Colored Hair

Previously colored hair is different.

Artificial pigment may still be present.

That can affect:

  • How much lighter the hair can become

  • How new color deposits

  • Whether the result is even

  • How porous the hair is

  • How much additional processing the hair can comfortably tolerate

One of the biggest mistakes people make is assuming that putting a lighter box color over previously colored dark hair will automatically make it lighter.

That is not always how color works.

3. HOW MUCH GRAY DO YOU HAVE?

Gray hair deserves special attention because it may behave differently from pigmented hair.

Ask yourself:

  • Do I have only a few gray strands?

  • Is my gray concentrated around the hairline?

  • Is it scattered throughout?

  • Am I mostly gray?

  • Do I want full coverage or just blending?

Those are very different goals.

Someone with a small amount of gray may need a different approach from someone whose hair is mostly gray.

And someone who wants the gray softened or blended may not need the same process as someone who wants complete coverage.

GRAY COVERAGE VS. GRAY BLENDING

These are not the same thing.

Gray Coverage

The goal is to make the gray look much closer to the surrounding hair.

Gray Blending

The goal is to soften the contrast without necessarily covering every gray strand completely.

Some people prefer blending because it creates dimension and can make regrowth less noticeable.

There is no one right choice.

The important thing is knowing what result you actually want.

4. WHAT CONDITION IS YOUR HAIR IN?

This may be even more important than the color you want.

Before you color your hair, ask:

  • Is my hair excessively dry?

  • Is it breaking?

  • Does it feel brittle?

  • Are my ends splitting?

  • Is detangling becoming difficult?

  • Does my hair feel weak when wet?

  • Is my scalp irritated or sore?

If your hair is already struggling, color may not be the first thing it needs.

It may need care first.

DRY HAIR IS NOT THE SAME AS DAMAGED HAIR

These words often get used interchangeably, but they are not exactly the same.

Dry Hair

Hair may feel:

  • Rough

  • Dull

  • Less flexible

  • Difficult to detangle

  • In need of moisture and conditioning

Damaged Hair

Hair may show:

  • Excessive breakage

  • Severe brittleness

  • Splitting

  • Loss of strength

  • Poor elasticity

  • Signs of chemical overprocessing

Hair that is dry may respond well to better moisture and conditioning.

Hair that is structurally damaged cannot simply be returned to its original untouched condition, but you can reduce further damage, improve manageability, and protect the healthier hair that remains.

5. WHAT IS YOUR POROSITY?

Porosity refers to how easily your hair absorbs and releases moisture and other substances.

You do not need to become a scientist to understand why this matters.

Lower-Porosity Hair

May resist absorbing moisture or product quickly.

Higher-Porosity Hair

May absorb quickly but also lose moisture quickly.

Previously bleached, chemically processed, or damaged hair may become more porous.

That matters because more porous areas can sometimes take color differently from healthier areas.

This is one reason the ends can become darker or more intense than expected.

YOUR ENDS DESERVE SPECIAL ATTENTION

The ends of your hair are the oldest part of the strand.

They have experienced:

  • More washing

  • More styling

  • More friction

  • More heat

  • More weather exposure

  • More chemical services

That means they may be more porous and more fragile.

Before coloring, inspect your ends.

If they are severely split, breaking, or rough, trimming may make more sense than trying to cover the problem with color.

6. HOW HEALTHY IS YOUR SCALP?

Color should not be applied to an irritated or damaged scalp.

Pay attention to:

  • Open sores

  • Scratches

  • Severe itching

  • Burning

  • Significant irritation

  • Recent scalp injury

If your scalp is not healthy, address that first.

A healthy hair-color routine should begin with a healthy scalp.

7. HOW FAR ARE YOU TRYING TO GO?

Now we can talk about the result you want.

Ask:

How different is the color I want from the color I already have?

A subtle change and a dramatic transformation are not the same project.

Going:

  • Dark brown to black

  • Dark brown to burgundy

  • Gray to warm brown

is very different from going:

  • Black to blonde

  • Dark brown to platinum

  • Previously colored dark hair to a very light fashion shade

The farther you move from your starting color, especially when going lighter, the more processing may be required.

That is why realistic expectations matter.

8. WHAT ARE YOU WILLING TO MAINTAIN?

This is the part people often forget.

Hair color does not end on color day.

Ask yourself:

  • How often am I willing to touch up my roots?

  • How much time do I want to spend maintaining the shade?

  • Am I okay with visible gray regrowth?

  • Do I want a color that fades gradually?

  • Am I willing to adjust my moisture routine?

  • Am I willing to reduce heat or manipulation if my hair needs it?

  • Do I want something low-maintenance?

The best color is not simply the prettiest shade.

It is the one you can realistically maintain without constantly stressing your hair.

HOME COLOR OR PROFESSIONAL COLOR?

Not every color service needs to be done professionally.

But some situations deserve more caution.

You may want professional help when dealing with:

  • Significant lightening

  • Corrective color

  • Multiple previous color services

  • Uneven color

  • Severely damaged hair

  • Complicated highlights

  • Dramatic transformations

  • A color history you are unsure about

A simple deposit-only color on healthy hair is very different from trying to correct years of dark permanent color and go blonde at home.

Knowing when to ask for help is part of making a healthy decision.

DO YOU HAVE TO WASH OUT YOUR PHAMILY HAIR CARE BEFORE COLORING?

Not necessarily.

Many of us already have PHamily Hair Care in our hair as part of our normal routine, and if the particular coloring process you are using does not require freshly washed hair, you may not need to wash your PHamily Hair Care out simply because it is color day.

The important thing is to follow the directions for the specific coloring product or method you are using.

Some hair-color products are designed for dry, unwashed hair.

Others may give specific instructions about cleansing or drying beforehand.

So keep it simple:

  • If your color instructions tell you to shampoo first, shampoo first.

  • If the instructions call for dry, unwashed hair, follow those directions.

  • You generally do not need to stop your normal PHamily Hair Care routine days in advance just because you are planning to color.

  • Avoid adding an unusually heavy layer of product immediately before coloring unless your coloring instructions support doing so.

  • A strand test can help you see how your own hair and your chosen color respond before you commit to your entire head.

Most importantly:

Do not intentionally neglect your hair in the days leading up to color.

Healthy, consistently cared-for hair should be the goal before color day.

KEEP CARING FOR YOUR HAIR BEFORE COLOR DAY

Preparing for color does not mean abandoning your regular healthy-hair routine.

Continue giving your hair the:

  • Moisture

  • Conditioning

  • Gentle detangling

  • Scalp care

  • End protection

  • Consistency

it already needs.

If PHamily Hair Care is part of your normal routine, continue using it normally as you prepare your hair.

Then, when color day arrives, follow the directions for the specific coloring method you are using.

The goal is not to begin the coloring process with hair that has been intentionally neglected.

The goal is healthy hair before, during, and after color.

PATCH TESTING AND STRAND TESTING STILL MATTER

Before coloring your entire head, understand the difference between these two tests.

Patch Test

A patch or allergy test helps identify whether your skin may react to the product.

Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the specific product you are using.

Strand Test

A strand test helps you see how your hair may respond and what the color may actually look like.

It can help answer questions such as:

  • Will this color show on my hair?

  • How dark will it become?

  • How will my gray respond?

  • Will my ends take the color differently?

  • How does my hair feel after processing?

A successful strand test does not guarantee every strand on your head will behave identically, but it can give you useful information before you commit.

YOUR PART 2 HAIR COLOR CHECKLIST

Before moving forward, answer these questions.

1. What color is my hair right now?

Look at your roots, lengths, ends, and gray separately.

2. What has already been done to my hair?

Think about color, bleach, relaxers, henna, heat, and other processing.

3. How much gray do I have?

And do I want to cover it or blend it?

4. What condition is my hair in?

Dry? Strong? Brittle? Breaking? Healthy?

5. How are my ends?

Healthy, porous, thin, or damaged?

6. How is my scalp?

Comfortable and healthy, or irritated?

7. What result do I actually want?

Be specific.

8. How much maintenance am I willing to do?

Choose a color lifestyle, not just a color.

THE BIGGEST LESSON FROM PART 2

Before you ask:

“What color should I buy?”

Ask:

“What is my hair starting with?”

That one question can help you avoid:

  • Unrealistic expectations

  • Uneven color

  • Unnecessary processing

  • Choosing the wrong type of color

  • Corrective work later

Your hair history matters.

Your hair condition matters.

Your goal matters.

And your maintenance plan matters.

COMING NEXT: CAN HENNA REALLY BE A BETTER WAY TO COLOR NATURAL HAIR?

In Part 3, we are taking a deep dive into henna and plant-based hair color.

We will cover:

  • What pure henna actually is

  • How henna colors the hair

  • What shades it can realistically create

  • What it looks like on darker hair

  • What it looks like on gray hair

  • Why henna does not lighten hair

  • What to look for when choosing a henna product

  • The difference between pure henna and products marketed as “black henna”

  • How henna may interact with previously colored or chemically treated hair

  • How to decide whether henna makes sense for you

For now, do not rush.

Look at your hair.

Understand your starting point.

Continue caring for it consistently.

And get ready for Part 3 of the PHamily Hair Coloring Series.

PHamily Hair Care

Emery McClendon

Photogenic: the leave-in conditioning, styling gel.